Living and running Top of the Woods in Pembrokeshire for over 12 years has given me the chance to explore some of the most incredible, hidden spots in this wild and beautiful part of Wales. From sweeping beaches and ancient woodlands to rugged coastlines and secret waterfalls, I’ve fallen in love with so many places that I can’t wait to share with you.
If you’re planning a visit and searching for the best beaches near me in Pembrokeshire, you’re in for a treat! One of my absolute favourites—off the beaten track yet breathtaking—is Penbryn Beach, a National Trust gem just a short drive from the campsite. I tend to visit these beaches when we’re closed in late autumn and winter, but they’re beautiful year-round, and I hope this inspires you to go and explore them for yourself.
I’d love to hear what you love about them, too! And sorry for the grumpy looking face I am happy :-) I promise you.
One of my absolute favourites is Penbryn Beach, a National Trust beach tucked away along the stunning Ceredigion coastline, just a short drive from our campsite Top of the Woods (which is North Pembrokeshire but borders onto the underrated beauty Ceredigion County – quieter & wilder).
Penbryn has a wild, epic vibe that reminds me of some of the dramatic Atlantic coastlines. It’s an ancient landscape with a history stretching back to the Iron Age and beyond, with ancient stones & markers. When the tide is low, the beach doubles in size, revealing hidden caves and rock formations for almost a mile.
The valley where Penbryn sits, is known as Cwm Lladron (the Robber’s Valley), was historically a hotspot for smugglers & pirate's sneaking in contraband from Ireland in the early 19th century. Plus, French wine, tobacco, and other illicit goods found their way ashore here—proof in some ways, not much has changed over time! Today, the beach is much more lawful in use, thanks to the National Trust, and remains a natural, unspoiled gem.
10 Reasons Why I Love Penbryn
Waterfalls & Woodland
If you’ve stayed with us at Top of the Woods, you’ll know I’m a bit obsessed with woodlands and waterfalls! One of the things I love most about Penbryn is the beautiful woodland walk leading down to the beach, complete with a huge waterfall that once powered an old watermill further up the valley.
It’s a great place to let Dylan and Dirk off the lead for a run through the woods, which they absolutely love. In spring, the woodland is carpeted with wild garlic and bluebells, making it even more magical. If you’re up for a longer hike, you can pick up the Pembrokeshire Coast Path here and head towards Tresaith for even more breathtaking views to the south or Llangrannog to the north.
A Coastal Walkers’ Paradise
Penbryn is part of the Wales Coast Path, and if you head south, you’ll discover the stunning beach—Tresaith.
It’s beautiful with its own waterfall tumbling directly onto the beach, great for a natural outdoor shower to wash off the salty sea from swimming. There are plenty of rock pools for the natural adventure kids and adults alike. And if you fancy a good pint and some food, there’s a great little dog-friendly pub where you can even order a sausage for your four-legged friend—trust me there little hairy face light up! (I mean the pooches not the men!) It’s easy to get distracted by the stunning beauty along this wild coastline on route.
Head north from Penbryn, and you’ll reach Llangrannog Beach, about 1.5 miles (2.5 km) away. Llangrannog is a picturesque seaside village with a sandy beach nestled between cliffs and a beach sauna (though check ahead to see if it’s open!). The walk itself is a treat, with stunning cliff top views that are well worth the effort, even if some sections are steep. Whether you’re stopping for a swim, a coffee, or just soaking up the atmosphere, Llangrannog is a must-visit on this stretch of the coast.
3. Doubles in Size at Low Tide
As you approach from the woodland or coast path, Penbryn stretches out in front of you, long and muted natural golden sand. But when the tide is low, the beach doubles in size, revealing hidden caves and an even more dramatic cliffscape. The wild, raw beauty of this place is what makes it so special—it’s romantic, rugged, and untamed.
However be careful as the tide comes in quickly when its returning back up the beach you have a window of approx. 1.5 hours. so always check behind you on the walk to make sure you don’t get caught out by the tide (& always check the tide times – so you know when this happens)
Sea Glass & Polished Slate Pebbles
Penbryn is one of the few beaches in the area where I regularly find sea glass. Every time I stumble upon a piece, I feel like I’ve struck gold—like an old-time prospector!
The beach is also full of smooth, polished slate pebbles that are lovely to hold & feel in your hand, but remember collecting them from the beach isn’t allowed – if we all did this we would soon lose the nature beauty. However, sea glass—formed from discarded glass bottles polished by the waves—is perfectly fine to take home as a little sea treasures.
Spectacular Sunsets
Being on the west coast, Penbryn has some truly breathtaking sunsets. In the autumn and winter months, I’ve enjoyed many evening BBQ/picnics with a campfire here—but remember to take all your rubbish with you to keep the beach pristine & get wrapped up because as the sun goes down it does get cold and it’s a 10 min walk back to the car.
Wildlife Encounters
This coastline is teeming with wildlife, so keep your eyes peeled for dolphins, seals, and seabirds—it’s always a thrill to spot them playing in the surf or basking on the rocks. I love to sit on the rocks with my binoculars to see what I can see.
Wild Swimming, Fishing & Surfing
I’ve taken a dip at Penbryn, though I’ll admit I wasn’t brave enough for a full swim! If you’re into wild swimming, this is a beautiful, remote spot, but always check the conditions and never swim alone—there’s no lifeguard here.
I have, however, seen plenty of people fishing from the shore, making it a great spot for anglers. Plus during winter it seems to attract a small but dedicated surfers, probably less so in the summer.
8.The Plwmp Tart Café
Back in the car park, you’ll find The Plwmp Tart, a cute little remote café serving local cakes (I highly recommend the frangipane tart if it’s on!) and fantastic coffee—the perfect stop before or after a beach walk.
It’s also a great spot for pooches to get a fresh bowl of water, so they can refuel before heading back out on another adventure or grabbing yourself a Welsh ice cream.
A bit of me time to quiet escape
Unlike some of the more crowded beaches, Penbryn always feels peaceful and open.
There is always somewhere I can feel like I have no one around me. I love sitting on the rocks, further south down the beach watching Dylan and Dirk play, chasing each other and rolling in the sand. It’s the perfect place to pause, breathe, and soak up nature & just listen to the waves… sometimes we all need a quiet place.
Off-the-Beaten-Track Adventure
What I love most about Penbryn is that it feels undiscovered—even though it’s a National Trust beach, it retains that wild, untouched charm. It’s one of those places where you feel like you’re truly in nature – I love it!
Practical Tips for Visiting Penbryn
Distance from Top of the Woods: Approx. 25 minutes by car
Dog-friendly: Yes, between September and March (seasonal restrictions apply)
No lifeguard patrol: Swim with caution
Toilets: Located in the car park (about a 10-minute walk from the beach—plan ahead!)
Parking: Paid car park unless you’re a National Trust member
Access to the Coastal Path: From the beach, cross the little wooden bridge and follow the woodland trail until you see signs for the cliff path to Tresaith—one of the most jaw-dropping coastal walks you’ll find.
Final Thoughts
Penbryn is a place of raw natural beauty, rich history, and adventure. Whether you’re looking for epic coastal walks, wild swims, or a peaceful escape by the sea, this hidden gem on the Welsh coast has it all.
It’s a beach that feels truly untouched, where you can slow down, breathe in the salty sea air, and reconnect with nature.
If you love off-the-beaten-track adventures, appreciate the untamed beauty of the outdoors, and want to experience more of Wales’s wild coast, Penbryn should be on your list.
And if you’re looking for a nature getaway to explore these stunning locations, we’d love to welcome you to Top of the Woods—where adventure, nature, and a warm campfire await!
Have you been to Penbryn? I’d love to hear about your favourite memories! Drop a comment and share your experiences.
Have you booked your stay yet?!
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